When we began to venture out in to the countryside to wildcraft and picnic and explore we never imagined that one day it would all be taken away from us in just a few days.
But it was...
Everywhere we have ever been has been smashed, damaged or ravaged by the consequences of a cyclone that has devastated our region. So many homes, lives and livelihoods have been erased in those same few days too: bridges washed away cutting off thousands of rural residents, stock drowned, onions, apples and pumpkins now litter the land and it all stinks to high heaven. We have been deeply affected by this unprecedented event- the stories of loss, salvation and heroism are heart-rending. It is difficult for us to allow space for the heaviness that has settled in to our lives as so many have lost so much and our loss is comparatively inconsequential, but not to us. Everywhere we think of that we have loved- the road is closed, the bridge has gone, the people's lives are shattered, the trees are uprooted, the landscape is masked with death-silt or there is no access.
Many of these places will never truly recover or perhaps be the same again.
So this blog has taken on a new role- that of telling of the beauty and delight that we have known.
In time we may be able to share stories of regeneration and renewal, but for now, as the work of clearing the land and caring for the people is underway I shall write of what was.
It was a time when Rob came across an article about a walking trail that you could follow, down the then defunct railway line, through the Esk Valley all the way to Holt's forest. We'd never heard of Ellis Wallace road but that's where it all lead. I wonder how it got that name? One day in May we drove out along the Napier Taupo road and took the sudden turn off, finding ourselves in the most idyllic valley. And time stood still.
Most of our Hawke's bay rivers are broad and functional and not terribly attractive, but the Esk river is a darling, willow-lined Awa, lined with gentle stones; clear, cold and clean.
May 22 nd 2016
It was safe at that time to walk across the railway bridge.
Quite an eerie feeling.
And we found wild carrot growing- even in winter.
And mullein (Verbena thapus) dew drenched.
And we came across usnea draped over the branches of old hawthorn trees.
30th January 2017
So hot and dry in this summer- we came back out to have a picnic dinner.
Tea towel of the week, not so successful, they flap in the breeze.
We were amazed by the shear, crumbly cliffs.
But the river was beautiful.
Tenacity- pure grit!
Even buddleia finding a vertical home.
Oh my word- so dry!
The old Wallace woolshed.
Wild flowers.
Walking upstream.
We followed the farm track to see where it might lead...
The following winter, one fine chilly day, I made cheese scones and we headed back to the valley.
9th June 2017
Riverside winter elegance.
Like Waipatiki, the sun moves on very early, but we managed to find a spot in the sunshine.
On our journey to get there we were delighted to discover scented jonquils at Pandora.
and over in that corner we found violets blooming. That surely made my heart sing!
I wonder who lives here?
A grand old gum.
The woolshed across the road that was washed away last week.
I think perhaps they were mowing this area back then.
Truly breath-taking!
The next time we took the journey to Ellis Wallace road we came across a vacant section filled with prickly pear. A fascinating and mean-as plant!
25th March 2019
And just as we headed up the road we came across a grove of hawthorn trees.
We had the most enchanting encounter here amidst the ripe haws and the fantails.
This was when we first started making smoky haw sauce. You can find the recipe here.
Hawthorn medicine has become an everyday part of our lives- heart nurturing, tonic rongoa.
So enchanted by this valley, we returned again in late winter.
2nd August 2019
Really, this is where our magical healing journey began. We discovered through coming here that all we had to do was to turn up. Just that- come prepared- walking shoes and cups of tea and a camera, but just show up. And from there we would be met by the land itself and we would find medicine- all kinds of things that made life better.
Who would have thought that there would be a wild violet patch under the hawthorn trees along side a river.
On the way out we passed the hawthorn family on the hillside. They like community, the Crataegus.
July is when the wild violets bring their gentle medicine to the world and offer so much support through the darker times of the year.
I'd made a "cheesecake" with wild violet jelly and when we got to the river spot, we discovered a small patch of white violets we'd not noticed before.
Although, many times we planned an adventure far, far away because we just couldn't bear the noise next door any more. Or the shut-inness that covid wrought; even though we've never faced a viral episode ourselves. Which is pretty amazing when you think about it,
When you visit a spot for the first time you have to shuffle around a bit and see if you can find a flat spot to set up the little table and our Cath Kidston oilcloth chairs. And ask yourself- is this a nice place with a special view?
Wild carrot blooming even in the cold.
And the sweet violets happily nestled under the trees brought us fragrance and joy.
They're even managed to hop across the road and settle themselves under the old oak tree.
And they've made a blanket for the fallen tree- to cover it's vulnerability in decomposition.
It's years since I have come across one of these- the chrysalis of a Gum Emperor moth.
By now we had found other remarkable spots to visit along this river so it wasn't until mid winter that we returned to visit with the violets.
12th July 2020
Once again the narcissi were found in abundance at Pandora. These Stars brought us such joy.
And then down the bank we found a large patch of Double Romans and even some centranthus ruber in bloom.
We began to collect pretty picnic things so that we could tailor our visits well.
I've written about making this cheesecake just here.
The water that runs clear and true.
The lovely old macrocarpa tree in the background,
The hill across the road that makes the sun disappear prematurely.
A wander up the road and under the railway bridge.
We so love these old Lombardy poplars too.
11th March 2021
It's interesting to consider that there was the big- covid and lock down and Wattie's tyranny thing going on through these years, yet when you look at our adventures you'd never guess.
Date scones were a lovely choice on this particular excursion.
We'd come to visit the hawthorns and this time we found that we could cross the river.
Well it was all bumpily quite perfect.
We loved being on the hawthorn side. I decided to make myself a crown.
A wander down under the railway bridge.
Excerpt from a book called ‘Pioneer Trails of Hawke’s Bay" by Miriam Macgregor that was first published in 1975.
They are so similar- willowweed and smartweed, but one is edible and the other not. This is smartweed (water pepper) with slender pale seedy flowers and the leaves have a nice heat to them, much like Horopito.
11th August 2021
When the Esk river is in calm and serene mode it is just delightful and so picturesque.
The land just across the road from the swimming spot that was once the Wallace farm.
And in the midst a quince tree.
Lovely to find oexeye daisies and wild apple mint- mentha suaveolens.
And wild cape gooseberries!
And wild blackberries and haws.
Aren't they so beautiful!
Blended with usnea barbata.
Beautiful autumnal river.
And back we came in late winter to visit the wild violet grove once more.
I hadn't realised how central this tree is to this river spot. A "Mother" tree.
Someone had some trouble getting up the bank again!
"Hello little people down there- aren't you interesting".
We all make shadows of presence.
Tucked in.
A bracket fungi! Ganoderma species.
Two beautiful Kereru came to visit- feasting on the tree lucerne only metres from where we sat.
The joy of spending time with the wild violets this day still remains with me.
Violets are one of my most treasured herbal allies.
Ever since we started making violet honey syrup we've never had another cough (and I used to get sore throats and a dry cough often). You can find out how to make it just here.
We stopped to help, as he was a menace to trucks and other traffic.
With each visit the riverside is a little different. This day we decided to picnic on the river beach.
It was pretty hot so one of us decided to have a swim!
Every visit and every adventure and every picnic is different.
This time there were omega plums, red kiwifruit and wholesome raisiny biscuits.
Oh, and a few delicious greengages that a farmer brought back for us after he bought omega plums at the gate.
Everything was a little ordinary until we waded across the river and discovered a glorious patch of wild carrot (daucus carota) and blackberry- of course!
And then we spent time with our dear friends the hawthorns, harvesting the crimson berries.
Bless the violets!
7th march 2022
Last march we headed out to the Esk valley once more with no particular agenda, only to find an emu wandering along the road.
It turned out that he didn't actually belong to the man above, but together we managed to herd him through an orchard gate. As it happens, emus quite like apples. Later we heard that his owners had caught up with him/her.
22nd July 2022
Back we came the next winter. By now the rains had begun, but the violets were flourishing.
Gathering the bunches of fragrant purple medicine was just as much a joy as last time. The all-flower tea was delicious.
I'd found a recipe for apple raisin and oatmeal biscuits. They are so good! The recipe is just here.
Sweet violets bring an elegance and emotional support and joy to winter here in Hawke's Bay for us- whether in our garden or in the wild.
We didn't know it then, but we were moving from a period of draught in to a time of more rain, that would eventually lead to flooding and disaster.
And later it was the wild violets.
New paths for us to explore.
We are always drawn back to the place that got us here- the railway bridge.
How amazing to find bumblebees working there way through the grove.
A murky Esk river carrying more water.
February 7th 2023
And then just a week before the great flood disaster, we headed out to visit our beloved Esk valley. This time we picnicked up at Esk Ridge Station, before stopping to visit our favourite spot on the way home. There is a large whanau that occupy this space each summer, but by the time March comes around they've headed off.
It was so good to see an abundance of wild carrot and fennel still present.
A lot of water in the river. No way we were coming back for the hawthorn harvest this season.
One last leaving and then a week later utter devastation!
The railway bridge - Billy's photo and the above Granny McNab Organic Heirloom plants.
One day we will record stories of regeneration and hope...
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